My friend just opened an Etsy shop called Pass It On. She has lots of cute vintage stuff at really reasonable prices. Check it out :)
Friday, April 12, 2013
Monday, February 25, 2013
Reusable Produce Bag from Orange/Onion Bag
Here is another pattern I had on our farm blog that is probably more appropriate to have over here. I made this pattern 3 years ago but I am still using these bags regularly. They are really fast and easy and best of all cheap. Have fun!
Orange bag/onion bag recycled drawstring produce bag pattern :)
So I think this is pretty easy but I thought I would put some instructions on how to make the produce bags. This was something I really wanted to make to eliminate the need for the plastic bags at the store. The added bonus is that you are using something else that would just get thrown out! If you don't know how to crochet this is an easy skill to learn and pretty useful.
Start with an orange or onion bag. Cut the
bottom off.
With the yarn end
on the inside of the bag, yarn over and draw thru a hole on either end of the
bag. This is going to be the top of the bag where the drawstring will be.
Ch 1, sc around the
bag (count how many chains you make this will be how many you need for your
drawstring. This number will vary with each bag.). Join to ch 1.
Ch 3, skip 1 ch and
dc in next ch. Ch 1 skip 1 ch and dc in next ch. Continue this around the
bag. Join to top of ch 2. Finish off.
Ch the number of sc
you had. This will be your drawstring.
Weave the
drawstring in and out of your dc's. Tie the two end together and there is the
top of your bag!
The next step will
be to close up the other end of your bag.
To do this you want
to put your need thru both sides of the bag. Yarn over and pull the yarn thru.
Ch 1 and sc across the bottom.
This is what your
bag should look like! (I couldn't take a pic with the new bag...it's the end of
the week so we have ate all of our fruit already!)
Using these bags
eliminates another source of waste which is awesome! Make these for people you
know or give them away to anyone who will use them!!!
Friday, February 22, 2013
Upcycled Gift Card Plant Markers
I have a huge pile of gift cards that I am slowly making a dent in. First I did my reusable gift tags which I love! I love the look of the chalkboard and was fooling around with the idea of making plant markers out of them. The obvious problem with that is, unless your plants are potted and on a covered porch, the rain is just going to wash away your chalk. I decided to keep the look of the chalkboard but keep it permanent by using black mat spray paint and a white paint marker (found at Joann's). Here is how they came out!
I LOVE how they turned out. The funny part is...they won't work in our garden. First we have 2-12 varieties of EACH of these so they would have to be a lot more specific. Also, weeds overtake our garden (over an acre) quickly which would render them useless. Oh well! They would make great gifts don't you think?
I used bamboo skewers for the back and I glued them on with "extra strength" glue gun glue that I found at Wal Mart. I will let you know if the "extra strength" part is legit. Side not: beware of the white paint marker. It will make you want to draw things on any black surface in your house. I keep hunting for new things to decorate with it! Let me know what you think of these and if you enjoy this please remember to share on your blog or Facebook page :)
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Free Crochet Pattern: Asymmetrical Toddler Hat
I have been on a hat making rampage lately. Probably because winter is almost over and I feel like I haven't taken advantage of making enough hats. I really wish I would get this motivated in the fall! Good new is these should all fit my daughter next year too.
This hat is a crochet, Downton Abbey inspired hat!
This hat has a pinched back and a grey strip in the back with the asymmetrical flap in the front. I really like how this turned out! I hope you like it too :)
What you need:
Yarn: Paton's 100% Wool Yarn (worsted weight, 2 colors)
Hook: F
Foundation Row: Ch 2, 7 sc in 1st ch. Slip stitch in top of ch 2.
Row 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 2 sc in each space around (16 sc) Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space *2sc in next space, 1 sc in next space* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x2 *2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next space twice* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x3 *2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x3* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x4 *2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x4* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x5 *2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x5* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 7: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x13 * 2sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x13* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 8: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x14* 2sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x14* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 9-18: Ch 1, sc in each space around. Join with slip stitch in first ch 1.
Row 19,20: Switch to second color. Ch 1, sc in each space around. Join with slip stitch in first ch 1.
Row 21: Switch back to main color, ch 1, slip stitch in each chain until last 21 stitches. Switch back to secondary color, 1 sc in next 7 spaces, 1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 1 dc in next 7 spaces (this starts the flap in the front). Ch 2, turn.
Row 22: 1 dc in next 7 spaces, 1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 1 sc in next 7 spaces, switch back to main color, slip stitch in remaining spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 23: Slip stitch in each chain until flap, switch to secondary color, 1 sc in next 7 spaces, 1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 1 dc in next 7 spaces, ch 2 turn.
Row 24: 1 sc in next 21 spaces, cut yarn, finish off.
Enjoy!
This hat is a crochet, Downton Abbey inspired hat!
This hat has a pinched back and a grey strip in the back with the asymmetrical flap in the front. I really like how this turned out! I hope you like it too :)
Without buttons.
With buttons!
Asymmetrical Toddler Hat
What you need:
Yarn: Paton's 100% Wool Yarn (worsted weight, 2 colors)
Hook: F
Foundation Row: Ch 2, 7 sc in 1st ch. Slip stitch in top of ch 2.
Row 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 2 sc in each space around (16 sc) Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space *2sc in next space, 1 sc in next space* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x2 *2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next space twice* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x3 *2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x3* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x4 *2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x4* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x5 *2 sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x5* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 7: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x13 * 2sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x13* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 8: Ch 1, 1 sc in same space, 1 sc in next space x14* 2sc in next space, 1 sc in next space x14* repeat around. Join in first ch 1 with a slip stitch.
Row 9-18: Ch 1, sc in each space around. Join with slip stitch in first ch 1.
Row 19,20: Switch to second color. Ch 1, sc in each space around. Join with slip stitch in first ch 1.
Row 21: Switch back to main color, ch 1, slip stitch in each chain until last 21 stitches. Switch back to secondary color, 1 sc in next 7 spaces, 1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 1 dc in next 7 spaces (this starts the flap in the front). Ch 2, turn.
Row 22: 1 dc in next 7 spaces, 1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 1 sc in next 7 spaces, switch back to main color, slip stitch in remaining spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 23: Slip stitch in each chain until flap, switch to secondary color, 1 sc in next 7 spaces, 1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 1 dc in next 7 spaces, ch 2 turn.
Row 24: 1 sc in next 21 spaces, cut yarn, finish off.
Enjoy!
Friday, February 15, 2013
Plastic Bottle Flowers
I wrote this tutorial about 3 years ago and had it over on my business blog. Clearly it makes more sense to have it over here on my crafty blog so...enjoy!
My husband and I were at the mall and I saw these really cute flowers in the window of Anthropologie. On closer inspection I realized they were made of pop bottles! How cool is that?! Well we don't generally drink pop here but my dad came over and brought some 20 oz. bottles with him so I thought maybe I could try it? I think it turned out well. Here is what I did...
I Cut the top off of the bottle.
I found a serrated knife worked best. Obviously be careful!
This is not a good craft for kids as you end up with a very pointy finished
project.
Here is the finished product! Kind of cute huh? Anthropologie had bunch of these in groups in different colors, sizes, and shaped. It looked really great. I think this would be wonderful at a baby shower or wedding for the super eco peeps out there!
My husband and I were at the mall and I saw these really cute flowers in the window of Anthropologie. On closer inspection I realized they were made of pop bottles! How cool is that?! Well we don't generally drink pop here but my dad came over and brought some 20 oz. bottles with him so I thought maybe I could try it? I think it turned out well. Here is what I did...
Peel off label.
I used the rigdes at
the bottom as a guide to cut line from the top cut end to the bottom end all the
way around. I then folded each flap down and held it with a clothes pin.
Get the clothes pin
on really good as I had a few fly off. Do this all the way around and keep them
like this for a couple of minutes to ensure they stay like this once
removed.
I then cut the
petals. I made mine pointed as you can see but you can cut them rounded or any
other way you want. I them folded it down in the middle and held each one with
a clothes pin. Do this all the way around.
Here is the finished product! Kind of cute huh? Anthropologie had bunch of these in groups in different colors, sizes, and shaped. It looked really great. I think this would be wonderful at a baby shower or wedding for the super eco peeps out there!
I also think that I
might leave a note for hubby to drill a hole in the bottom of this so I can try
putting a christmas light though it. I can just see his face when he reads that
note! The thought of it makes me laugh till I have tears in my eyes! I' m not
the only one out there whose husband just doesn't get some of the things she
does am I?
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Free Pattern: Classy Toddler Cloche
I just looove Downton Abbey so I have been wanting to make a cloche for my daughter for awhile and I finally sat down and did it! I like how it turned out, although I might try again using sc and making it a bit bigger. I thought I would go ahead and post the pattern here for this one (using hdc). This fits my daughter who is 3 1/2 and would probably fit a 3-4 year old. I have been getting quite a few emails lately from people asking me to adjust the pattern to fit a different size. As much as I wish I could do that, I really don't have the time so please keep that in mind when deciding if you should make this pattern or not. You should be able to judge if it will fit your little one as you are making it. This is an untested pattern so if you find a mistake, just leave a comment below and I will fix it as soon as I can :)
What you need:
Hook: F
Yarn: Patons 100% Wool (worsted weight), 2 colors if you want a band.
Foundation row: Ch 3, 13 hdc in 3rd chain from hook. Join to top chain of original chain 3.
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 2hdc in each space around. (28 hdc total) Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next space, *2hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next space* around. Join to top of ch 2 with slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, *2hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitich.
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 6 spaces, *2hdc in next space, 1hdc in next 6 spaces* around. Join to top of ch2 with a slip stitch.
Row 5-11: Ch 2, hdc in each space around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 12, 13: Switch to color for band. Ch 2, hdc in each space around. Join to top of ch2 with a slip stitch.
Row 14: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, *1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 2 hdc in next space* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 15: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 8 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, *1hdc in next 8 spaces, 2 hdc in next space* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 16: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 9 spaces, 2hdc in next space, *1 hdc in next 9 spaces, 2 hdc in next space* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 17: Ch 1, sc in same space, 1 sc in next 10 spaces, 2 sc in next space, *1 sc in next 10 spaces, 2 sc in next space* around. Join to top with a slip stitch.
Finish off!
I hope you enjoy this pattern! You can sell products you make with this pattern but DO NOT sell this pattern. I spend a lot of time on these pattern and if you appreciate the work I do and would like me to continue, you can donate using the button on the right side (avg. donation is $3). Thanks!
My poor little bear wasn't feeling so hot today so I quickly snapped a few shots of the hat on her and let her go! Maybe another day I can get some better pictures.
Hook: F
Yarn: Patons 100% Wool (worsted weight), 2 colors if you want a band.
Foundation row: Ch 3, 13 hdc in 3rd chain from hook. Join to top chain of original chain 3.
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 2hdc in each space around. (28 hdc total) Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next space, *2hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next space* around. Join to top of ch 2 with slip stitch.
Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces, *2hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next 5 spaces* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitich.
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 6 spaces, *2hdc in next space, 1hdc in next 6 spaces* around. Join to top of ch2 with a slip stitch.
Row 5-11: Ch 2, hdc in each space around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 12, 13: Switch to color for band. Ch 2, hdc in each space around. Join to top of ch2 with a slip stitch.
Row 14: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, *1 hdc in next 7 spaces, 2 hdc in next space* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 15: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 8 spaces, 2 hdc in next space, *1hdc in next 8 spaces, 2 hdc in next space* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 16: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 1 hdc in next 9 spaces, 2hdc in next space, *1 hdc in next 9 spaces, 2 hdc in next space* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a slip stitch.
Row 17: Ch 1, sc in same space, 1 sc in next 10 spaces, 2 sc in next space, *1 sc in next 10 spaces, 2 sc in next space* around. Join to top with a slip stitch.
Finish off!
I hope you enjoy this pattern! You can sell products you make with this pattern but DO NOT sell this pattern. I spend a lot of time on these pattern and if you appreciate the work I do and would like me to continue, you can donate using the button on the right side (avg. donation is $3). Thanks!
Monday, February 11, 2013
Free Crochet Lego Stuffie Pattern
Like I said, I have Lego on the brain so I whipped up this little stuffie for my youngest who likes to play with her brothers Legos but doesn't take care of them (in fact she JUST now offered to break her brother's Lego truck he just built). This is great for a little one or for a big one.
What you need:
Hook: Size F
Yarn: Worsted Weight
You should know that I crochet my sc in the front stitch and back stitch. I find this gives it a tighter look. If you choose to crochet in just one or the other, your Lego will be a little looser or bigger.
Foundation row: 14 sc, turn.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook (first chain counts as first sc), 1 sc in each remaining space (14 sc total) ch 1 (counts as first sc in row 2) turn.
Row 2: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 3: 1 sc in next 3 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc next 4 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 4-6: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 7: sc in next 3 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc next 4 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 8-10: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 11: sc in next 3 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc next 4 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 12-14: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 15: sc in next 3 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc next 4 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 16: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 17: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
This makes the top of the Lego!
Row 18: Sc in the back stitch of each chain space (putting the sc in the BACK stitch creates the edge for your Lego) (13 total), ch 1 turn.
Row 19-23: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 24: Sc in the back stitch of each chain space (putting the sc in the BACK stitch creates the edge for your Lego) (13 total), ch 1 turn.
Row 25-40: Sc in next 13 spaces, ch 1 and turn.
What you need:
Hook: Size F
Yarn: Worsted Weight
You should know that I crochet my sc in the front stitch and back stitch. I find this gives it a tighter look. If you choose to crochet in just one or the other, your Lego will be a little looser or bigger.
Foundation row: 14 sc, turn.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook (first chain counts as first sc), 1 sc in each remaining space (14 sc total) ch 1 (counts as first sc in row 2) turn.
Row 2: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 3: 1 sc in next 3 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc next 4 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 4-6: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 7: sc in next 3 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc next 4 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 8-10: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 11: sc in next 3 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc next 4 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 12-14: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 15: sc in next 3 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc next 4 spaces, popcorn stitch, 1 sc in next 4 spaces, ch 1 turn.
Row 16: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 17: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
This makes the top of the Lego!
Row 18: Sc in the back stitch of each chain space (putting the sc in the BACK stitch creates the edge for your Lego) (13 total), ch 1 turn.
Row 19-23: 13 sc across, ch 1 turn.
Row 24: Sc in the back stitch of each chain space (putting the sc in the BACK stitch creates the edge for your Lego) (13 total), ch 1 turn.
Row 25-40: Sc in next 13 spaces, ch 1 and turn.
Row 41: Using the picture above as a guide, sc in each of the next 13 chains in that stitch (the one pictured above) to give your Lego that edge. Ch1 and turn.
Row 42-46: Sc in each of the next 13 chains. Ch1 and turn.
This is what your piece should look like (make sure it has those ridges or you will just have a big weird lump ;)).
Attach your last row to the top of the first row with slip stitches across. Now onto the sides!
Sides (make 2)
Foundation Row: Ch 7, turn.
Row 1: Sc in the second chain from the hook, 1 sc in the rest of the stitches. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2-17: Sc across, ch 1 and turn (except for last row, no ch 1 and turn)
Finish off. (make sure to make two!)
Sew the sides to your first part but make sure to stuff your Lego before you finish the second side.
Hope you enjoyed this! Please don't forget to share if you did :) If you like it so much that you want to feed my yarn addiction to make sure I continue making free patterns...you can donate a little something (average donation is $3) on the DONATE button on the right sidebar. Thanks :)
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